Here you'll find everything you need to know to plan a trip to Buenos Aires, Argentina - whether that be for one week or five.
Background:
We were fortunate to have the opportunity to spend 5 weeks in Buenos Aires from the end of January to the end of February (1/23/24 - 2/27/24). During our extended stay, we planned four trips to destinations in South America that best fit our schedules (and budget!): Iguazú, Uruguay, Chile, and Salta. Each has its own chronicle detailing our itinerary and budget to make your travel planning as well-informed as possible! Here, we have a comprehensive look into our Buenos Aires stay, which highlights activities we did, sights we saw, and important tips.
About:
Buenos Aires is the capital and largest city of Argentina, with over 15.6 million people calling this city home. Argentina has the 2nd largest economy and is the 3rd most populated country in South America. It is known to be a very affordable place to visit and is a popular destination for tourists. Buenos Aires (and Argentina in general) is a very safe space for people who identify as LGBTQ+ and ranks among the highest in the world for LGBTQ+ rights. Same-sex sexual activity has been legal since 1887 and same-sex marriage was legalized in 2010.
Why Buenos Aires & South America:
The company Ethan works for announced that, starting in January 2022, employees could work anywhere in the world for up to 6 weeks per year plus 2 weeks of added vacation (totaling 8 weeks)! This program would be known as Publicis Groupe's Work Your World (WYW). Fast forward to early 2023, the discussion of moving in together was brought up and we began looking into our options:
whether we put our belongings in storage and go to a foreign country for 2 months right away in the summer to save on double rent; or,
wait for the new year in 2024 to travel somewhere warm to get 2 summers but risk paying more
With Malik about to start his 4th year of medical school in the summer of 2023, we knew there were possibilities for extended travel because the 4th year is typically the most laid back and tends to offer some rotations online. We ultimately decided on the 2nd option and opted to leave Chicago during the peak of winter and travel to a completely new continent. At this point, we just needed to figure out where. Our top 3 destinations were Rio de Janeiro, Buenos Aires, and Santiago. When comparing all the stats, we discovered that Buenos Aires would give us the best experience for the least amount of money, so we submitted the WYW request and booked the flights.
Obviously, we knew traveling to South America would mean Spanish would be the language of the land; however, we did not realize that once we were there, how little English the people spoke. This leads us to our first tip: language. Clearly having a basic understanding of Spanish is very useful when visiting Argentina. However, we must admit that we really knew little to no Spanish going into this trip - much of what we knew was an artifact of high school classes and Google Translate. While the language barrier was certainly difficult to navigate at times, we found that it was (overall) not an impossible hurdle just one that requires patience and humility. Depending on where you are in Buenos Aires (and the parts of South America we visited), some people did speak a degree of English or could at least make sense of what was being said. In many cases, however, this is not true, and you will need Google Translate (or some equivalent app/service) handy to navigate the conversation.
Getting to Buenos Aires:
We booked roundtrip tickets from Chicago to Buenos Aires pretty far in advance as we knew we were going on this trip in the third quarter of 2023. Our flights were 965.65 USD per person with a stop in Miami both on our departure and arrival flight. One thing we knew but didn't appreciate was that the flight was long - 9-10 hours from Miami to Buenos Aires (and vice versa) on top of a 3-hour flight from Chicago to Miami (and vice versa).
Our Stay:
We were fortunate to have the opportunity to stay at an apartment in Belgrano that we found through Ethan's work via a "home swap" - although we did not actually fully participate in the swap since his colleague through Publicis was spending some time out of the country already and offered us her apartment to rent during our time in Buenos Aires. Belgrano is considered an upper-middle-class neighborhood that is surrounds Avenida Cabildo, a busy shopping street known for its clothing brands. It's one of the largest barrios in Buenos Aires and is just north of the city's downtown area. While the area is not as familiar with tourists, it is pleasant for walking, and we would say considerably safe. We appreciated being somewhat removed from the tourist-dense parts of the city like downtown and Palermo, because it forced us to brush up on our Spanish and allowed us to explore parts of Buenos Aires we otherwise probably would not have.
Life in Belgrano
Dealing with the Currency Exchange and the Blue Dollar Rate:
As you might already know before reading this post, Argentina has a parallel currency exchange market known as the Blue Dollar or the Blue Market. Without delving into the complex political and economic reasons for this, it suffices to say that this is going to be the exchange rate you want to deal with when in Argentina as it gives you the best conversion rate for your money.
The easiest way that we found to obtain cash at the Blue Dollar rate was via Western Union. You can set up an account and transfer money via debit card for cash pickup at any location closest to you. And the best part is - it's free the first time you do it! We found that Western Union consistently provided the best rate possible when exchanging money. The only caveat here is that you have to consider several factors before going to exchange your cash:
Be cautious of the time - Lines can get long and if you go towards the end of the day, there is a possibility they could run out of cash! We were picking up about 200,000 pesos (roughly 200 USD) and all they had left in bill size were 500 pesos. Imagine going to the bank in the US to withdraw $200 but they can only give you half! Granted, their largest bill at the time was the 2,000 peso note due to the rapid inflation that hit.
Pick the right day of the week - Offices tend to be closed on the weekends. Watch out for holidays too! They don't necessarily follow the same ones we have in the U.S. Don't make the same mistake we did while we panicked looking for cash after a weekend with a holiday on a Monday & Tuesday.
Avoid unnecessary fees - Western Union offers the first exchange free of fees. We came to realize that using a debit card for cash pickup was also free. If there is a point where you need to make another exchange for whatever reason, create a new free account with another email or have someone else create one. This will help you save a lot on unnecessary fees. As you'll see further below, we exchanged four times and avoided paying any fee.
Do your research - At the time of our trip, Western Union made the most sense to us. This could change at any time due to the fluctuating market. Watch YouTube videos to help educate yourself on the process of getting the Blue Dollar Rate.
Because we had some difficulties anticipating our spending, we ended up having to exchange money about four times and the rates we got (per USD) were as follows: 1,293.13 ARS, 1,248 ARS, 1,239.50 ARS, and 1,081 ARS. Two things are evident from this: 1) the Argentine economy was going through some turbulent times and inflation was rampant, and 2) the inflation was improving during our stay and hence the power of the USD decreased (slightly).
There is also the option of walking the busy streets of downtown and exchanging money ("Cambio") with (literally) random people who indicate that they exchange. These individuals are pretty ubiquitous in the touristy/busy areas of the city. We did not personally do this given that we had the Western Union option; however, we did attempt to do so out of curiosity and the rate we were told was actually less than that of our credit card (around 1,100 ARS at the time). Though it was still better than the official exchange rate, it did not make much sense to do (in our opinion).
While you may hear that cash is king in Argentina, the grand majority of businesses accept credit cards. In terms of the rate you get when using credit, we can comment from personal experience that Apple's Mastercard and Chase Visa provide rates close to the Blue Dollar rate. We say close because they were not exactly the Blue Dollar rate we were getting through Western Union - in many cases they were about 100-150 ARS less. Nevertheless, it was useful to be able to use credit when necessary at rates pretty darn close to the best one we could find. We assume most other credit cards do the same in terms of rates, but we did have an instance where a Verizon Visa used the official rate, so we would definitely advise a test purchase to be sure.
Transportation:
During our stay in Buenos Aires, we either walked, biked, or took Ubers to get places. The city does have a public bike service (Ecobici) and it costs tourists about 1 USD or so for a 30-minute bike ride. We probably utilized this a little less than we would have liked but it was definitely convenient when we did. Bikes can be a bit hard to find at times, but not impossible. You need to download the Ecobici app and follow the prompts to set up an account (at one point, you will need to input passport information).
Uber in Argentina was definitely affordable given the exchange rate. Most Ubers we took were between 3 and 5 USD in the city itself. Longer rides (i.e., to the EZE international airport) ranged from 10-15 USD. This being the case, it made little sense to rent a car in Buenos Aires itself - between walking, biking, and Uber, you'll be able to get anywhere you need to be very affordably.
We did not have the chance to use public transit during our stay in Buenos Aires. This was mainly because the main subway line to Belgrano (where we stayed) was closed for construction, and we were wary of navigating the bus situation. In retrospect, we probably could have easily done so, but the affordability of Uber coupled with the option to walk/bike when we wanted reduced our appetite to venture beyond those options.
Exploring Buenos Aires:
There are (obviously) a variety of ways to get acquainted with the city. One of the first things we did was go on a free walking tour. This tour was a great way to get acquainted with the layout of the city and allowed us an opportunity to begin mapping out how we would tackle seeing as much of it as possible. It included visits to:
Teatro Colon
Templo Libertad
Palacio San Martin
Monument to the Liberator Don Jose de San Martin
Monument to the Fallen in Malvinas
French Embassy
Brazilian Embassy
Nunciatura Apostolica
Escultura Atlas Recoleta
As mentioned, the tour is free and you tip as much as you think is fair given the experience. Our tour guide was great and we ended up tipping 20 USD in total.
Various sights around Buenos Aires including some of those on the Free Walking Tour
Attending Carnival in Buenos Aires
Given that our stay was spread out over 5 weeks with intermittent trips, not every day was packed full of adventure, but we highlighted a few "itineraries" below, which capture some of our busier days exploring Buenos Aires.
Example Day 1:
Palacio Barolo: Distinctive landmark tower block with layout and design features inspired by Dante's "Divine Comedy."
Plaza del Congreso and Congreso Nacional: Plaza that surrounds the congressional building - filled with everything from classic to functional buildings. There are a number of houseless people that populate the plaza but we found it to be generally safe during the day.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid: This converted theater was first opened in 1919 and has now been converted into an elegant bookstore. It's definitely worth the visit to appreciate the architecture and art if nothing else. Note that there is more than one El Ateneo bookstore (but only one Grand Splendid). It is located at Avenida Sta. Fe 1860.
Avenida Alvear: Sophisticated seven-block avenue that features high-end retail shops, hotels, and European architecture. We went here to appreciate the architectural beauty and snap some pictures.
Centro Cultural Recoleta: This building built in 1732 is one of the city's oldest and is now a cultural center with concerts, classes, and exhibits. It is adjacent to the cemetery and is free to enter, so it makes a lot of sense to check out before or after your trip to the cemetery itself.
Cementerio de la Recoleta (and the Recoleta neighborhood): Built in 1822, this statue-rich cemetery features mausoleums of many historical political elites in Argentina. It notably houses the grave of Eva Peron among many others. It cost about 9 USD for 2 tourist tickets (4.50 USD each), which is pretty reasonable given the grandeur of the cemetery. There is also the option for a paid tour of the cemetery if you would like more of the history spoken to you while you appreciate it. However, we did not opt to do this. Outside the cemetery, there are restaurants and cafes to enjoy, and you can also explore more of Recoleta - an affluent part of the city known for its Paris-style townhouses, lavish former palaces, and posh boutiques.
Example Day 2:
Torre Monumental: Clock tower situated in Plaza Fuerza located in the Retiro neighborhood of Buenos Aires.
Basilica del Santisimo Sacramento: Extravagant Catholic church built in 1916 with Romanesque and Gothic elements. And 5 towers!
Galerias Pacifico: An upscale shopping center that bustling with activity, food options, and stores.
Florida y Lavalle: A very popular pedestrian shopping street that's full of shoppers, vendors, and even street performers at times (e.g., tango singers and dancers, living statues, etc.).
Plaza de Mayo: A foundational city square for the city formed in 1884 after the demolition of the Recova building, unifying the city's Plaza Mayor and Plaza de Armas
Casa Rosada (Pink House): The official workplace of the president and considered one of the most emblematic buildings in Buenos Aires.
Puerto Madero: Revamped dockside area with converted redbrick buildings containing restaurants and bars.
Woman's Bridge: The 160-meter-long pedestrian suspension swing bridge in Puerto Madero.
Example Day 3 (Sunday):
San Telmo Market and Fair: A massive outdoor market and fair that takes place in San Telmo - one of the oldest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. It runs every Sunday from 10 a.m. to about 5 p.m. and is visited by over 10,000 people every time.
Plaza Dorrego: Historic square with cafes and shops known for its tango dancers and Sunday antique market.
La Boca: A popular neighborhood in Buenos Aires known for its colorful buildings and for being home to Boca Juniors, one of the two largest football teams in Argentina.
We had the opportunity to attend a La Boca Juniors game during our time in Buenos Aires. We booked this experience through Airbnb and it cost a pretty penny - about 150 USD per person. Nevertheless, even for us football beginners, the experience was well worth it. We met with our guides beforehand, got a ride to a tailgate equivalent (with food and drinks available for purchase), were led into the stadium well in advance of the game, and were transported back to our pick-up location afterward.
Caminito: A traditional alley and street museum with vividly painted houses.
Exploring Buenos Aires & attending a Boca Juniors Game
Attending a Boca Juniors Game
One of the best ways we organized our travels is through a website called Wanderlog. It's the best itinerary tool we've discovered, and the best part is - it's free! You're able to input all of your flight, stays, and rental information right into the site and it even recommends places to visit based off what you are adding to your interests. Our full itinerary on our South American adventure includes points of interest, restaurant and bar recommendations, and even full-day itineraries for you to use! Be sure to check it out.
Museums: Most are free or are free on certain days. Do research before you go to save a few extra pesos. Below are a few popular ones around the city:
Museo Historico Nacional
Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA)
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
Museo Moderno
Palacio de Aguas Corriente
Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo
Food & Drink Recommendations:
Our Top Restaurants:
Mauer Bar*
Floreria Atlántico*
The Food Truck Store*
Intanto Resto-Bar*
Villegas Resto
Taco Box
Shawarma Midani
Oggi Pasta e Birra
Moros
Our Top Bars:
Mauer Bar*
Uptown bar*
Boticario*
Alvear Roof Bar
Luzmala Bar
Bar Helado
Our Top Cafes, Coffee, & Pastries:
SĀNTAL*
Venegas Coffee*
Cinna Coffee & Roll
La Argentina
*indicates our favorites
Eating & Drinking our way through Buenos Aires
Making Friends Along the Way:
To fully immerse ourselves into life in Buenos Aires, we knew we wanted to put ourselves in uncomfortable situations to try to gain a more unique and rounded experience. In our opinion, going to social events is the best way to do this. Before coming to Argentina, we did research on unique social activities and Midnight Runners stood out the most. You might have heard of them before because they have clubs in several cities around the globe!
The first opportunity we had to attend a run with Midnight Runners, we ultimately got anxious and stayed home. Lame, we know, but this helps build the story. We made a pact that the next week we would attend and if we hated it, we would never go back. We ended up having a great time meeting people from Chile, France, Argentina, & the U.S. (shout-out Miami - hi Andrea!). One of the team leads was actually from Chicago too!
Andrea, Malik, & I bonded over our shared interests and the fact that she was also here for a month doing an abroad rotation during her 4th year. Such a small world! She would then introduce us to her 2 roommates (Neha & Zara) who were here doing the same thing. Because we pushed ourselves out of our comfort zones, that one night led to several hangouts and dinners with our Miami-based crew. Had we gone the first week or skipped out again, we would have never met these incredible people. We will forever have that shared experience of a summer in Buenos Aires.
From Midnight Runners to friends :)
Come run with us!
Overall Thoughts and Impressions:
Living in Buenos Aires for over a month was a wonderful experience and we feel very fortunate to have had the opportunity to do so. It's a massive city with a lot to take in and explore. While we had roughly 2 and a half weeks or so to experience it (taking into account our other trips), you can likely pack that into 5-6 days, and use Buenos Aires as a launching pad to visit places like Iguazú, Montevideo, Salta, and Patagonia. We were very fortunate to go on this 5-week adventure and look forward to our next!
Extended-Stay Itinerary Budget Breakdown (per person) for 5 Weeks:
Roundtrip plane ticket US to BA: 950 USD
Checked Bag: 45 USD
Rent: 250 USD (500/2)
SIM Card: 8.50 USD
La Boca Juniors Game: 150 USD
Total = 1,403.50 USD
*Transportation / Ubers: 71 USD
*Ecobici: 8.50 USD
*Groceries: 53 USD
*Meals: 322 USD
*Drinks: 81 USD
*Coffee & Pastries: 87.50 USD
*Dessert: 32.50 USD
*Souvenirs: 29.50 USD
*Entertainment: 24.75 USD
*Healthcare: 40 USD
*Estimated Variable Costs: 749.75 USD (per person)
**Keep in mind, these costs are replacing 5 weeks of expenses in the U.S. We ate out for every meal (besides 1), took Ubers almost exclusively, and ordered iced lattes daily.
In total, across all excursions during our time in South America, we spent roughly $3,800 each. This includes all of our expenses across 35 days.
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